Written by Hanana, with photo notes from Hanakiki
Hi, I’m Hanana! Imagine a snowy mountain valley, steam rising from a hot spring, and a family of monkeys sitting in the warm water with snow on their heads. That’s Jigokudani Yaen-koen, the “Snow Monkey Park” in Nagano. It’s one of the very few places in the world where wild monkeys bathe in hot springs. After the visit, warm up with Nagano’s famous soba and oyaki dumplings.
At a glance
- Where: Jigokudani Yaen-koen, Yamanouchi Town, Nagano Prefecture
- When: Open all year; the snowy season is roughly late December to March
- Access: From Nagano Station, take the Nagano Electric Railway limited express to Yudanaka (38 min) and a bus (15 min), or the express bus toward Shiga Kogen (41 min). Then walk about 35 minutes on a forest trail
What to eat & try
Shinshu soba
Nagano, also called Shinshu, has cool weather and clean water, which are perfect for growing buckwheat. Shinshu soba is one of the most famous soba styles in Japan. You can eat it cold with a dipping sauce, or hot in broth on a snowy day.
- Try it like a local: When you finish cold soba, the shop may bring a pot of sobayu, the hot water the noodles were cooked in. Pour it into your leftover dipping sauce and drink it like a soup.
- Make your own: Some places in Nagano offer soba-making classes where you mix, roll, and cut the noodles yourself.
Oyaki
Oyaki are round dumplings made from wheat or buckwheat dough, filled with vegetables, pickles, or sweet bean paste, then grilled or steamed. They were a home food in Nagano’s mountain villages for centuries. Popular fillings include nozawana (local pickled greens), eggplant, and pumpkin. They’re easy to eat on the go.
Things to try
- Soak in an onsen yourself: The nearby towns of Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen have many hot springs. In Shibu Onsen, hotel guests can walk in a yukata robe and visit nine small public baths.
- Spot the monkeys’ daily life: Watch the young monkeys play in the snow and the adults groom each other. They are wild animals, so every visit is different.
What to see
The monkeys in the hot spring
The park’s Japanese macaques live in the mountains and come down to the valley, where they sometimes bathe in a hot spring pool. Their thick fur and red faces make them look very cute in the snow. Please remember they are wild animals.
The forest trail
The 2 km (1.2 miles) walk from the Kanbayashi Onsen area to the park follows a quiet path through a snowy cedar forest. It’s part of the experience.
Hanakiki’s photo spot
Hanakiki’s camera note: Stand on the far side of the hot spring pool and shoot with the steam and snowy hillside behind the monkeys. A zoom lens lets you keep a respectful distance. On a snowy day, a faster shutter speed captures the snowflakes. Never use flash, and never hold food or a selfie stick near the monkeys.
Event info
- Winter hours (November to March): 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
- Summer hours (April to October): 8:30 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
- Open every day of the year, but the park may close on short notice because of weather or the monkeys’ behavior. The monkeys may not always come to the hot spring.
- From December to April, online tickets get priority entry. Admission is paid.
Official website: Jigokudani Yaen-koen: https://jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/
Please check the official website for the latest information before you go.
Travel tips
- Onsen safety: Don’t bathe after drinking alcohol, get out if you feel dizzy, and check with your doctor first if you have heart or blood-pressure conditions. Drink water, and avoid sudden temperature changes, such as jumping into hot water right after a long walk in the cold.
- Shoes for snow and ice: The trail is icy in winter. Wear boots with good grip or bring snow spikes.
- Don’t feed or touch the monkeys: Don’t look them straight in the eye, and keep food inside your bag.
- Leave plenty of time: Plan at least half a day from Nagano Station, including travel and the walk.
- Check the monkey forecast: The park posts updates about the monkeys’ activity on its website.
Book your trip
- Getting there: JR East (trains in eastern Japan, including Tokyo): https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/
- Plan your trip: Japan National Tourism Organization: https://www.japan.travel/en/
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