Written by Hanana, with photo notes from Hanakiki
Hi, I’m Hanana! High on Mount Zao in Yamagata, something amazing happens every winter. Freezing winds cover the fir trees with ice and snow until they look like giant, frosty creatures. People call them juhyo, or “snow monsters.” You can ride a ropeway up to see them, then come back down to Zao Onsen for a hot spring bath and a bowl of Yamagata’s beloved imoni stew.
At a glance
- Where: Zao Onsen and the Zao Ropeway, Yamagata Prefecture
- When: The snow monsters are usually best from late January to February
- Access: About 2.5 hours from Tokyo by Yamagata Shinkansen to Yamagata Station, then about 40 minutes by bus to Zao Onsen
What to eat & try
Imoni
Imoni is a hearty stew of taro potatoes, beef, green onions, and konjac, simmered in a soy sauce broth. In Yamagata, friends and families gather by the river in autumn for imoni-kai, outdoor imoni parties. In winter, it’s a warming dish served at restaurants and inns. Each region has its own style; in the Yamagata City area, the soy sauce and beef version is the most common.
- Try it: Some places finish the leftover broth by adding udon noodles or curry. Ask if they offer it!
Zao Onsen’s hot springs
Zao Onsen has a history of nearly 1,900 years, according to local tradition. Its water is strongly acidic, with a milky color and a sulfur smell. After a cold ride up the mountain, soaking in an outdoor bath while snow falls is the ultimate treat.
Things to try
- Ride the ropeway to the snow monsters: The ropeway carries you up to the area where the trees are frozen. From the top, you can walk a short distance on the snow.
- Try skiing or snowshoeing: Zao is a famous ski resort, and some tours offer snowshoe walks among the snow monsters.
- Taste konnyaku on a stick: Round konjac balls simmered in soy sauce, called tama-konnyaku, are a popular Yamagata snack.
What to see
Juhyo, the snow monsters
Juhyo form when cold, wet winds from the Sea of Japan freeze onto Aomori fir trees again and again, building thick layers of ice and snow. Only a few places in the world have conditions just right for this. In the evening, the snow monsters are sometimes lit up in colors, a fantastic sight. In recent years, insect damage and warmer winters have reduced the number of fir trees, so the snow monsters are smaller and fewer than in older photos. Restoration work is underway.
Zao Onsen town
The hot spring town at the foot of the mountain has narrow lanes, wooden inns, and public baths. It’s a relaxing place to stay after a day in the snow.
Hanakiki’s photo spot
Hanakiki’s camera note: At the top of the ropeway, look for a group of snow monsters with a clear sky behind them. Blue sky makes the white shapes stand out. Cameras and phones lose battery quickly in the cold, so keep them in an inside pocket until you’re ready to shoot. And wear gloves that let you use a touch screen!
Event info
- Snow monsters season: Usually late December to early March, best from late January to February.
- Evening light-up: Scheduled from late December 2026 to February 2027, about 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. (last season: December 27 to February 22, 36 nights). Light-up nights and the last ropeway up depend on the schedule and weather.
- Night Cruiser tour: A snowcat tour to see the lit-up snow monsters. Advance booking required.
- Ropeway hours change by season and weather.
Official websites
- Zao Onsen Tourism Association: https://zaomountainresort.com/
- Zao Ropeway: https://zaoropeway.co.jp/
Please check the official website for the latest information before you go.
Travel tips
- Dress for extreme cold: At the top of the ropeway, it can be around 5°F (−15°C) or colder with strong winds. Wear a ski jacket, snow pants, a hat, goggles or sunglasses, and warm boots.
- Onsen safety: Don’t bathe after drinking alcohol, get out if you feel dizzy, and check with your doctor first if you have heart or blood-pressure conditions. The acidic water can irritate sensitive skin, so rinse off with fresh water afterward. Drink water, and avoid sudden temperature changes between the freezing air and the hot bath.
- Weather can stop the ropeway: Strong winds sometimes stop the ropeway. Have a backup day if you can.
- Bath manners: Wash before entering the bath, and remove silver jewelry; the acidic water can discolor it.
- Book early: Inns in Zao Onsen fill up in February.
Book your trip
- Getting there: JR East (trains in eastern Japan, including Tokyo): https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/
- Plan your trip: Japan National Tourism Organization: https://www.japan.travel/en/
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