Written by Hanana, with photo notes from Hanakiki
Hi, I’m Hanana! Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma is one of the most famous hot spring towns in Japan. In the center of town, steaming hot water flows down wooden channels into a turquoise pool called the Yubatake. In winter, with snow on the roofs and steam everywhere, it feels magical. And the streets smell sweet, thanks to freshly steamed onsen manju.
At a glance
- Where: Kusatsu Onsen, Kusatsu Town, Gunma Prefecture
- When: Lovely all year; snowy from about December to March
- Access: About 2.5 hours from Tokyo: JR limited express to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station, then about 25 minutes by bus. Direct express buses from Tokyo also run
What to eat & try
Onsen manju
Onsen manju are small steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste. They’re sold in almost every hot spring town in Japan, but Kusatsu’s main street has many shops steaming them all day long. Some shop staff may offer you a sample on the street as you walk by. The warm buns make a perfect snack after a bath.
More hot spring town snacks
- Onsen tamago: Eggs slowly cooked in hot spring water, with a soft, silky center.
- Hana-mame: Large sweet beans, a mountain specialty of Gunma.
- Soba and maitake tempura: Warm soba with mushrooms from the mountains is a cozy winter meal.
Things to try
- Watch “yumomi”: Kusatsu’s water is very hot, so people traditionally cooled it by stirring it with long wooden boards while singing a folk song. At the Netsunoyu hall next to the Yubatake, you can watch a yumomi and dance show, and even try stirring the water yourself.
- Hot spring hopping: Some of the town’s free public baths are open to visitors, and there are larger day-use bathhouses too. Follow the posted rules at each bath.
- Foot bath: Near the Yubatake, there are free foot baths where you can warm up without changing clothes.
What to see
The Yubatake
The Yubatake (literally “hot water field”) is the symbol of Kusatsu. Huge amounts of hot spring water come out of the ground here every minute and flow through wooden channels to cool down and collect yunohana, mineral deposits used as bath salts. At night, it’s lit up in beautiful colors.
Sainokawara Park
A short walk from the town center, this park has hot water flowing through a rocky valley. In winter, the steam rising from the snowy rocks is a striking sight. A large open-air bath is also in the park.
Hanakiki’s photo spot
Hanakiki’s camera note: Walk around the Yubatake to the side of the wooden channels and shoot along them, so the steam and the waterfall are in the same frame. After dark, the lights make the water glow. On cold mornings, the steam is thicker, so come early for the most dramatic shots. Watch out for icy paths!
Event info
Yumomi and Dance Show (Netsunoyu)
- Six shows daily: 9:30 a.m., 10:00 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 3:30 p.m., 4:00 p.m., and 4:30 p.m. (regular schedule)
- In winter, show times may change. Last winter, they were 10:00, 10:30, 11:00 a.m. and 3:30, 4:00, 4:30 p.m. from December to February.
- Admission is paid. No reservations: tickets are sold at the counter starting 30 minutes before each show. Payment is cash or PayPay only, so bring cash.
Official website: Kusatsu Onsen Tourism Association: https://www.kusatsu-onsen.ne.jp/
Please check the official website for the latest information before you go.
Travel tips
- The water is strong: Kusatsu’s hot spring water is very acidic and hot. Keep your baths short, about 3–5 minutes, and drink water. Don’t bathe after drinking alcohol, get out if you feel dizzy, and check with your doctor first if you have heart or blood-pressure conditions. The acidic water can irritate sensitive skin, so rinse off with fresh water afterward.
- Bath manners: Wash your body before entering, don’t put your towel in the water, and tie up long hair. Some baths have rules about tattoos; check each one.
- Snow driving: Roads to Kusatsu can be snowy and icy. The bus is a safer choice in winter.
- Bring a small towel: It’s handy for hopping between public baths.
Book your trip
- Getting there: JR East (trains in eastern Japan, including Tokyo): https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/
- Plan your trip: Japan National Tourism Organization: https://www.japan.travel/en/
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