Written by Hanana, with photo notes from Hanakiki
Hi, I’m Hanana! Dazaifu Tenmangu, near Fukuoka, is the shrine for the god of learning. Students from all over Japan come here to pray for success in their exams, and at New Year’s it is one of the busiest shrines in Kyushu. The road to the shrine smells wonderful, thanks to rows of shops grilling little rice cakes called umegae mochi.
At a glance
- Where: Dazaifu Tenmangu, Dazaifu City, Fukuoka Prefecture
- When: January 1–3 is the New Year peak; plum blossoms bloom from late January to March
- Access: About 30 minutes from Fukuoka (Tenjin) by Nishitetsu train to Dazaifu Station, then a 5-minute walk
What to eat & try
Umegae mochi
Umegae mochi are thin, round rice cakes filled with sweet red bean paste and grilled until crisp on the outside. They are stamped with a plum blossom, the shrine’s symbol. According to a local story, when the scholar Sugawara no Michizane was sent to Dazaifu, an old woman cheered him up by giving him a rice cake on a plum branch. Today you can watch shops along the approach grill them in iron molds, one after another.
- Try it: Buy one fresh off the grill and eat it while it’s warm.
- Special days: Some days of the month, shops sell umegae mochi made with special ingredients like mugwort. Look for signs.
Things to try
- Pray for success: Students write wishes for exams on ema plaques. You can wish for success at work or in learning a new skill, too.
- Touch the “goshingyu” ox: Bronze ox statues stand on the grounds. People rub the ox’s head, hoping to become wiser.
- Cross the three bridges: The red bridges over Shinjiike, a pond shaped like the Japanese character for “heart” (心), represent the past, present, and future.
What to see
The main hall
The shrine has a history of more than 1,100 years. It was built over the grave of Sugawara no Michizane, a scholar and politician who was later honored as the god of learning. It is the head shrine of about 10,000 Tenmangu shrines across Japan.
Tobiume, the “flying plum tree”
To the right of the main hall stands a famous plum tree. Legend says it loved Michizane so much that it flew all the way from Kyoto to be with him. It is usually one of the first plum trees to bloom each year.
Hanakiki’s photo spot
Hanakiki’s camera note: On the approach, find a shop where you can see the grilling molds from the street. Shoot the mochi coming out of the iron plates, with a little steam rising. Ask before taking photos of the staff, and keep the shop’s signs out of the frame if you share online.
Event info
- New Year’s Eve: a purification ceremony is held on December 31.
- Regular gate hours in winter are from early morning to about 6:30 p.m. Special New Year hours are usually announced in December.
Official website: Dazaifu Tenmangu: https://www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp/
Please check the official website for the latest information before you go.
Travel tips
- Take the train: Roads near the shrine are very crowded at New Year’s. The Nishitetsu train is easier.
- Go early: The approach is calmest before 10:00 a.m.
- Combine with a museum: The Kyushu National Museum is a short walk from the shrine through a tunnel with moving walkways.
- Plum season: If you can’t visit at New Year’s, February is a lovely time to see the plum blossoms.
Book your trip
- Getting there: Nishitetsu train from Nishitetsu-Fukuoka (Tenjin) Station to Dazaifu Station
- Getting there: JR Kyushu (to Hakata Station): https://www.jrkyushu.co.jp/english/
- Plan your trip: Japan National Tourism Organization: https://www.japan.travel/en/
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